New obsession.

Me working the first crux on Hobo.

So, since I have FINALLY sent "Before the Storm" I found a new boulder problem to obsess over. Hobo V8/9! I think this is perfect for me and will transition me nicely into climbing V9s. And, if I send this I will have completed my goal that I set at the beginning of this year to send a V9 before the year is up! It was kind of my New Year's resolution, I have been increasing three grades every year I've been climbing and I really hope to stay on the same track. This will be my third year climbing so the goal is V9 before year's end.

Yesterday I got out with a few friends but didn't get to get on Hobo. Instead a friend Andy Burgoon took me on some crazy Haycock circuit and I ended up climbing 14 different problems, with Andy racking up 27 sends for the day. Hopefully if the weather is good I'll get out sometime this coming week and work out some moves on Hobo. Otherwise I will be competing in the Vertical Extreme comp this Saturday. I suck at comps and can't seem to find motivation to climb hard indoors but we'll see how it goes.

Pre-tempest

Sent "Before the Storm!" I finally sent an ongoing project of mine at Haycock this past Sunday. I have been working this problem on and off since the beginning of spring. It's a V7 that starts on two sharp crimps and traverses up and right and ends with a dynamic throw to a weird slopey sidepull. For so long I would float through the beginning and fall over and over throwing to the finishing sloper. It basically turned into more of a mental battle to get past that last move. I also sent "Chiba," a V4 that feels like an impossible V6 in the summer.

Check out the video of "Before the Storm"


Before the Storm from Matthew Herman on Vimeo.